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There is much to be excited about in Chicago these days. It is joints like this that remind the world why Chicago is everyone’s kind of town. But the real draw at this newly opened throwback diner from superstar chef Paul Kahan (Big Star, the Publican) is the menu whose Tex-Mex inspired standouts include smoked brisket with avocado, pico de gallo, chicarones and green chile vinaigrette rolled into a large flour tortilla, or chicken fried chicken drenched in chorizo verde gravy and topped with sweat peas and pearl onions. Meanwhile, gratuitous wood paneled walls give the whole place a kind of 70s dive bar vibe and provides the requisite cue that we are deep in the heart of hipster country.
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Dee Dee Warwick’s “A Fool for Love” is playing on a record player, not on the vintage Select-O-Matic 100 jukebox hiding in the corner, which works only about half of the time. On a bustling weekday afternoon each one will be flattened by Midwestern butts-which are arguably more voluminous during the winter months. in Wicker Park are crafted of a shiny, rich brown vinyl and gleam with newness. The stools at Dove’s Luncheonette (1545 N Damen Ave.